Introduction and detailed explanation of conventional chemical fiber fabrics

1. Introduction to raw materials

Properties of polyester (PET):

　1. Strong wear resistance.

2. Poor water absorption, the official moisture regain is 0.4% (20℃, relative humidity 65%, 100g polyester absorbs 0.4g water).

3. It is easy to generate static electricity and is prone to fluffing and pilling.

4. Acid-resistant but not alkali-resistant. Note: A certain concentration of alkali will destroy the surface of polyester at a certain temperature and make the fabric feel soft.

5. Good corrosion resistance and durability.

6. Fabrics made of polyester fiber are not easy to wrinkle, have good dimensional stability, are easy to wash and dry quickly.

Polyester spinning form:

1. FDY (filament): single fibers are parallel and smooth evenly.

There are big points, complete ones, half-complete ones, and finished ones. The brightness is getting weaker and weaker.

2. DTY (elastic yarn): single fiber bending, low stretch, loose shape.

3. DTY network yarn (low elasticity network yarn): There are network points in stages to increase the bundling ability between fibers.

It is divided into no mesh, light mesh, medium mesh and heavy mesh, among which the heavy mesh can be used as starch-free silk.

Under normal circumstances, FDY and DTY must be sized or twisted before they can be used as warp threads.

Sizing: Increase the strength of silk threads; obtain cohesion between fibers; make the surface of fibers completely smooth, making it easier to weave.

Twisting: Increases strength; increases the cohesion between fibers; gives the fabric a crepe effect.

Twist: (T) The number of twists of silk thread per centimeter.

　0-10 T/CM weak twist

　10-20 T/CM medium twist

　20 T/CM strong twist

4. POY (pre-oriented yarn): It can be stretched but not rebound. It cannot be used as warp or weft alone. It must be combined with other yarns. It can be stretched 1.6 times. POY yarn is a semi-finished product of low-elastic network yarn. Typical fabric: washed velvet.

5. ATY (air textured yarn): The surface is not clean and there are loops. Typical fabric: velvet

6. Polyester staple fiber: multiple short fibers are twisted along the axial direction.

7. Polyester slub yarn: filament and low stretch yarn are twisted together, and the speed of stretch yarn is slow.

8. High elastic yarn: high stretch, high looseness.

9. Polyester cationic yarn: It can produce a two-color effect with ordinary polyester yarn. It is easy to color and the color is bright.

Nylon (PA) or nylon NYLON (N)

Characteristics: 1. The strength is particularly good, even exceeding that of steel wire of the same fineness.

2. The wear resistance is particularly good, surpassing other fabric fibers, and is suitable for casual wear, socks, parachutes, and cables.

3. Poor water absorption, with a nominal moisture regain of 4%, prone to static electricity, fluffing and pilling.

4. It is resistant to alkali but not acid, and can be dissolved by 37.5% hydrochloric acid.

5. Good corrosion resistance, poor water resistance, poor heat resistance, long-term sun exposure and reduced yellowing.

6. Work clothes made of nylon are easy to deform and wrinkle.

Spinning form: Mainly FDY, ATY.

Spandex (Pu)

Properties: It can be elongated 500-800%, has low strength, is sweat-resistant, seawater-resistant, acid-resistant, and has good alkali resistance. It cannot be used as warp and weft threads alone and must be covered with other silk yarns.

The main forms of spandex wrapping are: empty bag (spandex is clearly visible); machine bag (spandex is wrapped inside)

Island bonding silk

It is a laminated yarn composed of a mixed network of sea island yarn and high shrinkage yarn.

High shrinkage yarn: The shrinkage rate in boiling water reaches 35% (so the suede yarn has a high shrinkage rate).

Island silk: superfine fiber, single fiber can reach 0.138 (producing the velvet feel of suede).

　Viscose (R) viscose fiber

Properties: 1. The chemical composition is the same as cotton, and the performance is close to cotton;

　2. Better hygroscopicity than cotton, easy to color, brightly colored, and good dyeing fastness;

3. The wet strength is low, 40-60% of the dry strength. The elasticity and wear resistance in the wet state are poor. The viscose fabric is not resistant to washing and has poor dimensional stability.

Spinning form: viscose filament – rayon – rayon

Viscose staple fiber – rayon – rayon

　acetate fiber

Properties: 1. The official moisture regain is 6%, semi-hydrophobic fiber;

　2. The strength is not good enough, it is as smooth as silk and feels smooth;

3. Soft, easy to deform, and poor wear resistance;

4. Compared with viscose, acetate fiber has low strength, poor hygroscopicity and poor colorability. Its feel, elasticity, gloss and warmth are better than viscose fiber.

Metal filament

Stainless steel wire, single wire specification 0.035mm-0.28mm

Function: flash, conductive, fireproof, radiation protection function.

2. Introduction to common chemical fiber fabrics

　1. Polyester taffeta, taffeta, polyester plain spinning, polyester silk spinning POLYESTER TAFFETA

Plain weave polyester

Warp and weft: 68D/24FFDY full polyester semi-finish plain weave fabric.

Mainly include: 170T, 190 T, 210 T, 240 T, 260 T, 300 T, 320 T, 400 T

T: It is the sum of longitude and latitude density in units of inches. For example, 190 T means the sum of longitude and latitude density is 190 (actually it is generally less than 190).

Usage: Generally used as lining

　2. Nylon Taffeta

Plain weave nylon

Use 70D or40D nylon FDY, density: 190T-400T

There are many derivatives of nylon spinning, all called nylon spinning, including twill, satin, plaid, jacquard, etc.

Usage: Men’s and women’s workwear fabrics. PU coated nylon is airtight, watertight, and down-proof, and is used as fabric for ski shirts, raincoats, sleeping bags, and ski suits.

　3. Pongee POLYESTERPONGEE

Plain weave polyester

At least one item of warp and weft must be low-elastic (network) silk

If the warp and weft are all elastic, it is called full-elastic pongee, and if the radial direction is made of filament, it is called semi-elastic pongee

The original pongee was a plain weave, now it has many derivatives and complete specifications, with densities ranging from 170T to 400T

There are half-finished, finished, twill, raised points, strips, flat grid, floating grid, rhombus grid, football grid, waffle grid, oblique grid, plum blossom grid…

Usage: “Semi-elastic pongee” fabric has been used to make lining accessories such as suits, suits, jackets, children’s clothing, professional wear, etc.; “full-elastic pongee” can be used to make down jackets, casual jackets, children’s clothing, etc. Water-blocking PU coated fabric can also be used to make water-blocking clothing, umbrellas, ponchos, awnings, etc.

　4. Combed cotton OXFORD

Plain weave polyester, nylon

Longitude and latitude are at least 150D and above

Polyester combed cotton: filament, stretch yarn, high stretch yarn

Nylon combed cotton: filament, velvet combed cotton, nylon combed cotton

Common ones include:

150D*150D, 200D*200D, 300D*300D, 150D*200D, 150D*300D, 200D*400D, 600D*600D, 300D*450D, 600D*300D, 300D*600D, 900D*600D, 900D*90 0D ,1200D*1200D,1680D, various jacquards

Usage: Mainly used to make trolley bags

　5. TASLAN

Plain weave is generally nylon, but also polyester

Use ATY in the latitudinal direction, and the latitudinal D number is at least twice the radial D number.

Conventional: nylon velvet, 70D nylon FDY*160D nylon ATY, density: 178T, 184T, 196T, 228T

Various plaids, twills, and jacquard velvets are available

Usage: jackets, work clothes fabrics, trolley bags, etc.

　6. Huayao FAILLE

Plain weave polyester

Weak twist in weft direction

Radial: 75D DTY network wire or 75D FDY

Weft direction: 150D DTY 8T/2S2Z – (8 twists, 2 left and 2 right twists)

Divided into full Huayao and half Huayao

Gaosibao: Radial: 75D DTY network wire

Weft direction: 150DDTY 22T/2S2Z

KOSIBAO weft reinforced twist

Washed velvet: radial: 50DFDY+50DPOY

Weft direction: 150DDTY 8-12T/2S2Z

Usage: workwear fabrics, trolley bags, etc.

　7. Imitation silk series IMITATION SILK

Plain weave polyester

　1) POLYESTER GEORGETTE

The warp and weft are both twisted and arranged in 2S2Z

75D Georgette: 75DFDY 18T/2S2Z * 75DFDY 18T/2S2Z

Enter 17#*2 on the upper machine–(pierce the No. 17 reed twice, that is, the secret 34 of the upper machine)

Regular: 50D Georgette, 75D Georgette, 100D Georgette, 150D Georgette

　2) POLYESTER CHIFFON

The warp and weft are both twisted and arranged in 2S2Z

75D chiffon: 75DFDY 22T/2S2Z * 75DFDY 22T/2S2Z

Enter No. 19#*2 on the upper machine–(pierce the No. 19 reed twice, that is, the upper machine secret 38)

Regular: 30D, 50D, 75D, 100D, 150D

Derivatives: Jialisha, Orissa. . .

Chiffon is very similar to Georgette. Chiffon has a higher twist and higher density than Georgette

　3) POLYESTER CRINKLE CHIFFON

Add a medium twist in the radial direction (about 18T), and add a strong twist in the weft direction (about 28T)

75D crepe: 75DFDY * 75DFDY 28T/S

Regular: 50D*50D, 75D*75D, 75D*100D, 100D*100D

It mainly depends on the style

Usage: summer women’s clothing,

　8. Peach skin brushed MICRO FIBER /PEACH SKIN

Plain weave, twill, satin weave, polyester, brocade polyester

Peach skin brushed fleece is a thin sanded fleece fabric woven from ultra-fine synthetic fibers. The surface of the fabric is covered with very short, fine and fine velvet. It has the functions of moisture absorption, breathability, and water blocking, as well as a silk-like appearance and style. The fabric is soft, full of luster, and feels smooth and waxy.

Weft direction 150D/144F or 288F fine fiber

Radial: 75D/36F or 72F DTY network wire

Weft direction: 150D/144F or 288FDTY network yarn

Due to the fine denier fiber, after the peach skin is sanded, the hair feels delicate

Usage: Beach pants, work clothes (jackets, skirts, etc.) fabric, can also be used as luggage, shoes and hats, furniture decoration

　9. Suede MICROSUEDE

Satin weave

Mainly divided into diameter suede and weft suede

Radial suede: Island bonding yarn is used in the radial direction, and general polyester elastic yarn is used in the weft direction

Regular: 105D*75D, 105D*150D, 105D*200D, 105D*300D, 105D*400D, 105D*450D, 105D*600

Weft suede: radial general stretch yarn, weft island laminated yarn

Normal: 75D*160D, 75D*225D

Usage: Curtains, home textiles, shoe materials, sofa covers, decorative fabrics, women’s spring and autumn, etc.

　10. Glass yarn ORGANDY

Plain weave nylon

Use 20D or 30D monofilament for warp and weft, low warp density, low weft density, sparse density, thin texture, clear step holes, smooth feel, elasticity, good breathability, and comfortable to wear.

Usage: Summer shirt dresses, pajamas, headscarves, veils and embroidered base fabrics, lampshades, curtains.

　11. Nylon polyester N/P TAFFETA

Plain weave

It has a two-color effect, known as chameleon, radial nylon, weft polyester, plain weave. There are also full polyester ones, which use a cationic yarn to produce a two-color effect.

Conventional: 70D*75D, 70D*150D (thickened), density: 170T, 190T, 210T, 230T, 300T

Usage: home textiles, curtains, work materials.

　12. Gabardine (full polyester) GABARDINE

Twill weave

Warp and weft stretch yarn, twill weave

Regular: 150D*150D, 150D*200D, 150D*300D

Usage: tooling, work clothes, etc.

　13. Shumei Silk

Twill weave 2/1 twill polyester

Radial filament, weft stretch yarn

Normal: 68D FDY*75D DTY

Usage: lining