“青，取之于蓝，而青于蓝”，《荀子·劝学篇》中的这句名言，就是指用蓝草制成的靛蓝可染出更青的颜色� �植物染亦称草木染，采用天然植物、中药材、花卉、蔬菜、茶叶制成染料，为织物染色� �根据相关资料，早在四五千年前的新石器时代，我国就已掌握了植物染料的提取、染色技术� �轩辕黄帝时代，已开始用草木之汁染色制衣� �植物染在唐朝达到鼎盛，成为当时社会主要的染色技术方法� A large number of colorful silk fabrics dyed by plants and trees were exported to Central Asia, West Asia, the Mediterranean and Europe through the world-famous “Silk Road”, creating the glory of ancient Chinese silk, and plant dyeing techniques also spread to Japan. and other countries �随着科技的进步，植物染这种与人类肌肤亲近的染色法，在化学染织物靓丽的外表下逐渐淡出历史� �近现代，丝绸织物中，除了香云纱采用纯植物染色之外，基本上都采用化工染料� �</p
近年来，在致力于吴罗织物的研究与开发工作中，李海龙一直在寻求染色上的转变与突破，力求使吴罗织物更符合历史特性� �今年初，在与一家常州企业的合作中，终于成功地将植物染应用于吴罗织物上� “Unlike chemical dyes, plant dyeing materials are completely extracted from natural plants. They are dyed at medium temperature and dried naturally. No fixing agent is added in the whole process. What is advocated is the natural absorption and fixation of color by silk fabrics.” It is worth mentioning. What I mention is that despite the adoption of new plant dyeing technology, the natural “competitive” advantage of Wuluo fabrics has not disappeared. �记者在现场看到，经植物染色的吴罗衣物，不仅色彩多样，而且色泽更温和，触觉也更具肌肤感，非常柔软� �</p
“At first, some Hanfu enthusiasts contacted us, hoping that we would apply plant dyeing to the production of Hanfu. Because of the elegant characteristics of Wu Luo itself, coupled with the soft natural colors, the aura of Hanfu can be fully revealed. Later, Yue More and more customers are beginning to order this pure natural product Colorful and environmentally friendly clothing, it will also be our main high-end fabric product in the future. “Li Hailong is also the chairman of Suzhou Shenglong Silk Embroidery. He revealed that currently plant-dyed fabrics are mainly ordered by some designers and studios that make Hanfu. In the future, he will further expand production and investment in this area �据了解，圣龙公司是苏州首家运用植物染的丝绸企业，相较于化工染色，植物染色的成本要高出8-15倍，产出率则要低15%-20%� �</p
据悉，在国内，目前植物染色技术尚处于研发阶段，仍有不少环节亟待改进。为此，李海龙也提醒消费者在洗涤植物染衣物时，应避免高温、长时间浸泡等。
What is Luo?</p
轻若烟云的罗，起源于战国时期的传统织造技术四经绞罗技艺，其面料轻薄透气，呈现出若隐若现的浮雕效果，与皮肤的摩擦小，便于散热。在中国古代，罗是好的夏季服装面料。苏州是罗的故乡，织罗技艺高超，素有“吴罗”之称。2013年，吴罗织造技艺列入第六批苏州市非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录，传承单位苏州圣龙丝织绣品和另一家丝织企业家明缂丝厂。
What are natural dyes?</p
古代染料采用的是天然染料，有植物染料、矿物颜料和动物分泌物染料。战国以前，已经有了丝和麻的精炼、染色、绘画等织物加工系统。植物性染料很多，如茜草红、荩草黄、榛槲黑、槐米黄，尤其是蓝草，能提炼出染得更深的靛青。而白云母、红朱砂、黑石墨、金银等属于矿物颜料，被用来作涂染颜料。动物性染料有胭脂虫，紫胶虫(紫铆)、墨鱼汁等。而紫铆，是一种很奇特的动植物连体的染料。“染”有套染、媒染、涂染、缬染，除了涂染，均属浸染。媒染性染料利用不同的媒染剂就会衍生出繁多的色调，媒染性染料有槐花、姜黄、苏枋、茜草、栀子、荩草等植物，而矿物金属盐可用作媒染剂。
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