The main properties of pearl fiber indicate that the fiber is suitable for weaving close-fitting fabrics, including close-fitting knitted fabrics, shirt fabrics, sportswear fabrics and bedding. The development of pearl fiber yarns and fabrics mainly adopts blending methods, which can not only better solve the weakness of low single fiber strength of pearl fiber, but also give full play to the functional characteristics of pearl fiber.
When designing and developing pearl fiber underwear fabrics, you should pay attention to the following three principles.
The content of pearl fiber should be no less than 30%, so that the fabric developed can have a high cost performance. The weight of the fabric should not be too low and should be controlled at around 200 grams/square meter. If spandex is not used when developing underwear fabrics, attention should be paid to the dimensional stability of the fabrics.
The coloring rate of pearl fiber is similar to that of viscose fiber. Therefore, when blending or interweaving, attention should be paid to the coloring rate of mixed fibers and interwoven yarns. The main component of pearl particles is calcium carbonate, plus amino acids and trace elements, so pearl fiber has stronger alkali resistance than viscose fiber.
At present, underwear fabrics are mainly developed in China by blending pearl fiber with Tencel, Modal, cotton, etc. The blending ratios are mainly 40/30/30 and 30/70. Products blended with Tencel or Modal must have an anti-pilling level of at least level 3; the bursting strength of underwear must be above 180cN according to conservative design.
The following key points should be paid attention to in the production process design and control of all aspects of product development.
When designing high-end fabrics, it is necessary to control indicators such as yarn uniformity, neps, details, joint strength, and yarn hairiness. Knitted fabrics based on regenerated cellulose fibers are prone to clouding, so yarn uniformity is crucial. The hairiness index of yarn has a great influence on the smoothness of the final fabric.
In terms of weaving process control, special attention should be paid to the uniformity of the yarn tension controlled by the tensioner. At the same time, attention should be paid to maintaining the integrity of the knitting needles, and adjusting the temperature, humidity and speed of the weaving workshop.
In the dyeing and finishing process, pre-treatment of cotton-containing pearl fiber fabrics only requires fine washing (or scouring). Fabrics blended with Tencel or Modal should also be pre-shaped in addition to fine washing. When dyeing, the temperature of fabric dyeing should be raised slowly first and then quickly to reduce the occurrence of color flowers.
Since the bursting strength of pearl fiber fabric is low, when carrying out biological enzyme treatment, attention should be paid to the process principle of “high concentration and short time”. When softening pearl fiber fabrics, the breathability and moisture conductivity of the fabric must be considered, and hydrophilic softeners should be used as much as possible. In addition, the raw material of this fabric is mainly regenerated cellulose fiber. The finished fabric should not be folded and packaged, but should be packaged in rolls.
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