Calculation method of fabric cost
Fabric cost = raw material cost + weaving cost + dyeing, printing and finishing processing fee + Inspection, rolling and packaging fees + tax + losses in each link
01 Raw material cost
Raw material cost = yarn amount per meter × yarn price
How to calculate the amount of yarn used per meter? We classify all fabrics into non-elastic fabrics, weft stretch fabrics, and four-way stretch fabrics to explain them respectively.
1
No stretch fabric
Gray fabric warp density = finished product warp density .
Gray fabric weft density = finished product weft density × (1- dyeing shrinkage)
Note: Dyeing shrinkage is about 2-5% of cotton , 3-8% for polyester and cotton, 8-15% for 100% polyester. The thinner the fabric, the greater the dyeing shrinkage. Machine-cylinder dyeing has a greater shrinkage than long-car dyeing. The smaller the steaming shrinkage requirement of the finished fabric, the dyed The greater the shrinkage.
Let’s give an example. For example, the specifications of conventional cotton gauze card fabrics are 21s×16s/128×60 with a width of 63 inches (note that the yarn count units of the specifications are British counts, and the density units are inches. Door width is also measured in inches. Some specifications are not in this unit and can be converted. For example, the unit of chemical fiber is D, then the number of D
Formula:
Warp yarn amount = (warp density × width × 0.65) / warp yarn count, that is, 128 × 63 × 0.65/21 = 249.6 grams
Weft yarn amount = (weft density × width × 0.65) / weft yarn count
, that is, 60×63×0.65/16 =153.6 grams
In the formula:
0.65 is a coefficient, a very rough coefficient. There are many factors that affect the size of this coefficient, such as shrinkage, warp elongation due to tension, loss, etc.
The amount of yarn used per meter of cloth here is not equal to the gram weight of the finished fabric. There is also a coefficient, generally 0.88. We calculated the amount of yarn used is 249.6+153.6 = 403.2 g/m, the gram weight of the finished product is about 403.2×0.88 =355g/m, the weight per square meter is 355/1.5 (door width) = 237g/m2. This coefficient varies greatly for different fabrics. During dyeing, there are many factors that affect this coefficient, such as shrinkage, alkali Reduction, pre-processing, etc., often rely on experience to summarize this coefficient
Assuming that the price of 21-count cotton yarn is 20,000 yuan/ton = 0.02 yuan/g, then the cost of warp yarn is: 249.6×0.02=4.992 yuan/meter; similarly, assuming that the price of 16-count cotton yarn is 1 8,000 yuan/ton, then the cost of yarn in the weft direction is 153.6×0.018=2.76 yuan/meter. The raw material cost of this specification is 4.992+2.76=7.75 yuan/meter.
The prices of raw materials can be found in the textile raw material market on major textile websites, or you can call the corresponding production factory. Some yarns are special, such as some slub yarns. Yarns with special blending proportions and special-purpose yarns are not in stock on the market and need to be spun to order. The price is more expensive than conventional yarns, which also affects the cost and delivery time.
2
Weft elastic surfaceMaterial
Conventional weft stretch fabrics have corresponding gray fabrics, such as:
Full Finished cotton stretch poplin:
The corresponding gray fabric for 40×40+40D/133×72 57/58 inches is 96×72 upper machine door width 84 inches
Finished cotton stretch yarn card:
The corresponding gray fabric for 16×16+70D/120×40 48/50 inches is 90×40 with a door width of 72 inches
Complete cotton elastic Zhigong finished product:
32×32+40D/190×80 The corresponding gray fabric for 57/58 inches is 130×80 on the machine Door width 84 inches
For other non-conventional weft elastic fabrics, the door width shrinkage is calculated according to this ratio. The general door width shrinkage is about 30%. Restore the specifications of the finished product to the specifications of the gray fabric, and then press the non-elastic fabric. The formula for calculating the amount of yarn used in fabrics can calculate the amount of yarn used and the cost of raw materials.
3
Four-way stretch fabric
The method is the same, and the fabric specifications of the finished product must be restored to the machine specifications of the gray fabric, and then calculated according to the calculation method without elasticity.
For example, for cotton four-sided elastic, the finished product specifications are 32s/2+70D×32s/2+70d, the density is 100×60/inch, and the door width is 46 inches, the machine specification when reduced to gray cloth should be a density of 65×46 The door width is 72 inches, (the shrinkage rate in the weft direction is 35%, and the shrinkage rate in the warp direction is 23%, usually for long-length tie-dying). According to the previous calculation formula, the yarn amount can be calculated: (65+46) × 72 × 0.65/16=325g/m (if the yarn counts in the warp and weft directions are the same, add the warp and weft densities), that is, the amount of yarn used per meter is 325 grams.
Another example is polyester four-way stretch, the common finished product specification is 200d+40d×200d+40 density The door width is 228×80/inch and the width is 57/58. The machine specification when it is reduced to gray fabric should be that the warp and weft density is 82×56 (Full polyester four-way stretch is generally dyed with an overflow vat, and the shrinkage rate is about 30% in both the warp and weft directions.) The door width on the machine is 84 inches. The converted count of 200d should be 5314/200=26.6 counts. According to the amount of yarn used The calculation formula calculates the yarn amount: (82+56)×84×0.65/26.6=283g/m. 2em;”> Other T/R four-sided elastics and T/C four-sided elastics are all the same, except that the shrinkage in the longitude and latitude directions is different. For specific shrinkage data, please consult people with relevant production experience.
There are also some special fabrics, such as warp stretch grosgrain, high shrinkage fabrics, wrinkled fabrics, etc. I have relatively little contact with them and have no experience in this area. Practical experience.
Based on the amount of yarn used in the gray fabric, and considering the warp shrinkage of dyeing, alkali loss and other factors, the gram weight of the finished product can be roughly calculated. The gram weight calculated by this theory There is a big difference between the weight and the actual gram weight. The general error is about plus or minus 20 grams/meter, which can only be used as a reference.
02 Weaving costs
The weaving fee is mainly related to the weft density, and secondly to the loom.
For example, for general cotton air-jet looms, it is usually said that ” “One dime per shuttle” means: divide the weft density by 2.54, and then multiply it by 0.1, which is the weaving cost. For example, the conventional variety of cotton poplin 40×40 133×72/inch, the weft density is 72, The calculated weaving fee is 72/2.54×0.1=2.83 yuan/meter. If it is full chemical fiber filament and no sizing is required, the weaving fee can be calculated as 8 points.
Some varieties are more difficult to weave, and the weaving fee is higher. For larger door widths, the weaving fee is higher. The more high-end the loom, the more expensive the weaving fee. There are shuttle looms for weaving. Cheap, projectile weavingWeaving looms and jacquard looms are expensive.
The processing fee is cheaper in the off-season than in the peak season. The first half of the year is the off-season, and the second half of the year is the peak season. Large factories, large-scale factories, and factories with standardized management have better quality assurance than small factories, and the processing fees are also more expensive. The appropriate factory should be selected according to the quality requirements of different customers.
03 Dyeing and printing post-finishing processing fee
Generally, cotton is tie-dyed with long lathes , full process reactive dyeing, the dyeing fee for spring and summer fabrics is about 1.5 yuan/meter, and the dyeing fee for autumn and winter fabrics is about 2.8 yuan.
Ordinary polyester fabrics are dyed in a vat. Spring and summer fabrics cost about 1 yuan/meter, and autumn and winter fabrics cost about 2 yuan/meter.
Ordinary printing has several sets of colors and the width of the door, and the processing fee ranges from 2 yuan to 5 yuan.
Embroidery processing fee is based on the number of stitches per meter Calculation, generally for ordinary small-machine flat embroidery, the cost is 0.03 yuan/thousand stitches. For large-machine embroidery, sequin embroidery, towel embroidery, water-soluble embroidery, chain embroidery, patch embroidery, and multi-color embroidery, the processing fee will increase more or less.
In short, the higher the quality requirements, the more expensive the corresponding processing fees will be.
When calculating these processing fees, don’t forget to include shrinkage and loss. For example, 100% cotton four-way elastic fabric has a warp shrinkage of 23% and the dyeing cost is 4.5 yuan/meter. If the gray fabric is 15 yuan/meter, then the dyeing cost is: 15/(1-23%) + 4.5 = 23.98 yuan/meter. meters, plus 2% loss (seams during production, etc.), 23.98×1.02=24.46 yuan/meter.
Other special fabrics, such as nylon fabrics, Tencel, Modal, etc., or special processing fees, such as Teflon three-proof treatment, embroidery processing fees , coating, lamination, etc., you need to consult the corresponding production and processing enterprise in detail to get the accurate cost.
04 Other costs
InspectionThe cost of rolling and packaging is generally 0.1 yuan/meter, and the value-added tax is 17%. For example, if the profit is 1 yuan/meter, then a tax of 0.17 yuan/meter will be paid. If the customer does not need an invoice, it can generally be 3% cheaper.
What needs to be explained is that the theoretical calculation here Only suitable for customized varieties and fabrics with special specifications. If it is a conventional variety, the price on the market is generally cheaper than the theoretically calculated price. The actual price is based on market conditions and can basically be found on major textile websites. Because of the large quantity, the processing fees in each link are cheap and the loss is small. , and some are cheaper if they cut corners, such as less weight, less warp and weft density, thin yarn count, poor dyeing quality, poor yarn dryness and poor strength, etc.
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