『Abstract』 Modern tie-dye, known as “artistic dyeing and finishing”, is an emerging discipline that is different from traditional tie-dye and industrial printing and dyeing. It has the dual attributes of art and science. Modern tie-dye’s rich and colorful craft techniques and advanced scientific production processes highlight the characteristics of the integration of sensibility and rationality and have the openness of borderline interdisciplinary subjects. They conform to the technological characteristics of the development of the times and clothing fashion trends, and have good applications. development prospects.
The modern tie-dye named as artistic dyeing & finishing is a new court which being different from traditional tie-dye and industrial printing & dyeing, it has both art and scientific characteristics. The rich technique and advanced procedure demonstrate its rational and geist characteristic , and has the opening of edge-crossed court, keep the step with the developing technical character and the fashion trend, occupy a prospective foreground for use.
『Keyword』Artistic dyeing & finishing, interdisciplinary, modern tie-dye, differentiation
KEYWORD: artistic dyeing & finishing, the court cross, modern tie-dye, discrepancy
More and more cutting-edge fashion designers are using modern tie-dye art in their design series for avant-garde creativity. Modern tie-dye fabrics are also known for their unique visual image, unfamiliar texture effects and in-depth understanding of pop art. Interpretation, is widely used in fashionable clothing for all seasons, thus breaking the long-term monotony of printed and dyed fabrics for casual clothing, and greatly enriching the design language of casual clothing. Modern tie-dye is gradually becoming the main craft element of Western casual clothing with its unique aesthetic appeal and highly mature professional standards.
1. A new interpretation of “artistic dyeing and finishing”
“Artistic dyeing and finishing” is a new concept proposed compared with the three traditional dyeing processes of traditional tie-dye, batik and blue calico and mechanical industrial dyeing. Tie-dye, rubbing, transfer creasing, impromptu hand spray painting, graffiti-style drawing and exfoliationThe general term for emerging handicraft clusters such as dyeing and coloring: that is, the use of modern printing and dyeing technology on various textile fabrics and ready-made garments combined with various special craft techniques such as tying, sewing, wrapping, dyeing, spraying, painting, rubbing, brushing, carving, and pressing. , the artistic practice of creating new graphics that are different from the aesthetic characteristics of industrial printing and dyeing, such as two-dimensional, three-dimensional or monochrome and multi-color blends①. This is a dynamic and open system, and its important design idea is to differentiate the appearance of modern industrial dyeing and finishing products. Compared with traditional tie-dyeing and mechanical industrial dyeing and finishing, “artistic dyeing and finishing” has an infinite connotation and extension that “changes with the times”, demonstrating the artistic charm of being compatible with Eastern and Western cultures and integrating traditional and modern techniques. , embodying the innovative spirit of tracking contemporary cutting-edge technology and pursuing personalized garment dyeing and finishing processing.
Since a series of techniques of “artistic dyeing and finishing” are expanded on the basis of tie-dyeing technology, people are accustomed to call it “modern tie-dying”.
2. The technological evolution of “artistic dyeing and finishing”
China’s traditional tie-dyeing, batik and blue calico techniques are collectively known as the “three quintessences of China”. Traditional tie-dyeing is still relatively pure in Dali, Yunnan. It imitates drawings on original white homespun cloth and sews them with needle and thread: techniques such as manual flat seams, fold seams, and willow seams. It is a modeling technique based on lines; dots Grain tie flowers: It is a graphic composition with special tying methods such as one-mesh, four-roll, and Guandong knots. Dots are accumulated into lines and density is formed into surfaces. Hat: Dot color or leave blank at the pattern, and wrap the pattern part with a high-temperature-resistant PVC film. To achieve the purpose of preventing staining. Batik is most influential in Guizhou and Zigong, Sichuan. Paraffin and beeswax are usually mixed and melted in a certain proportion, and then the liquid wax is used to position the liquid wax on the cloth according to the pattern with a spoon, knife and pen to form a protective layer, which is produced during dyeing. Anti-stain effect and pattern with “ice crack” characteristics. Blue calico is represented by Nantong, Jiangsu and other places. The principle of its process is to use soybean flour slurry to position and print on the fabric according to the pattern to form a dye-resistant layer, and then dye it with indigo to form a deep white flower. It is a traditional folk dyeing process. .
They use a unified indigo tone and unique resist-dyeing techniques to express emotions on rough plain cloth. The themes of their expressions are mostly inherited from history and folk styles. The decorative patterns are often based on figures, animals and plants that are popular among rural people. ancient totem Transformed into paintings, it is widely used in the design and development of tourism handicrafts and ethnic costume products, forming a handicraft system with Chinese national characteristics. It occupies a certain traditional market in Japan, Europe and the United States with its original tension of self-expression and fresh visual effects. However, the technological attributes of “three dyes” determine its industrial nature: first, the aesthetic taste of traditional clothing products is far away from modern life, and monotonous and original craft performance and technical means cannot interpret the ever-changing fashion; secondly, the workshop-style The production method cannot adapt to the modern market rhythm and fierce market competition; thirdly, due to the singleness of the dyes used and the limitations of the dyeing process, the dyeing quality cannot be guaranteed, and the finished products have poor performance. In the past, there have been attempts to make wax and tie-dye fashionable in China, and powerful manufacturers have also held fashion shows at large domestic exhibitions. However, due to the exaggerated style and craftsmanship,The taste is far away from the popularity of the modern market and does not conform to the lifestyle of modern people, so it is quiet.
However, the unique activities and behaviors of the traditional spinning and dyeing techniques of the “three quintessences of China” are precious treasures of the Chinese nation. Its “national character” conveys the natural view of “harmony between man and nature” in Eastern culture, which makes it even more popular in the world. The white-collar workers working hard in the noisy modern workplace are moved. In the face of traditional crafts, it is very meaningful to how to “take spirit from the remains” and to study its poetic creativity to “use the past for the present” in modern design.
With a keen insight into the future development trend of the clothing industry and a unique innovative spirit that dares to say “no” to traditional classics, modern tie-dye has jumped out of the old folk traditional crafts, and on the basis of insisting on inheriting the essence of traditional crafts, Integrate modern printing and dyeing science and technology and advanced means, and implement strategic adjustments that cut into modern fashion apparel, diversify process performance, industrialize production, and internationalize the market. The success of modern tie-dye technology integrating into mainstream European and American fashion clothing and popular textile fabrics is the success of the transition from the “indigo complex” of the traditional “three-dye” technology to the “commercial operation” of modern fashion. It is the habitual oral instruction of artists. Handmade workshop production, the application of technical aesthetic achievements and the successful transformation of global business strategy to the interpenetration and symbiosis of science and art in modern enterprises.
3. The original technology of “artistic dyeing and finishing”
Through standardized design, modern tie-dyeing cross-integrates the unique spinning and dyeing activities of the “three quintessences of China” with modern dyeing and finishing technology, and organizes it into industrialized production shape, each piece of ready-made clothing must be made by well-trained “artists” and processed by advanced technological means. This kind of special craft beauty is created by the passion and originality of traditional “pinnades” and “painters” using a variety of craft techniques. It is the inheritance, abandonment and expansion of the three traditional dyeing techniques, and it is also beyond the reach of rational cloning of modern printing and dyeing industrial equipment. Qiji has the following obvious original technical characteristics:
1. Freely design garment dyeing graphics
Different from traditional tie-dyeing technology, modern tie-dying, as the core technology of “artistic dyeing and finishing”, has modern dyeing and finishing features in terms of green environmental protection, dye fastness standards, dyeing production processes and control The characteristics of the industry can therefore adapt to the requirements of economic globalization for the garment industry.
In terms of creative design of fabric and clothing dyeing graphics, modern tie-dyeing does not require industrial printing and dyeing plate making, and the process is free and extremely efficient. According to market trends and design intentions, modern tie-dye technology can complete a large number of prototype plans in a short period of time and submit them to buyers for confirmation. After placing the order, they can be quickly put into production and can derive a variety of color schemes and patterns. Form a series of advantages in multiple varieties and small batches. In particular, the original nature of the graphic creation of the garment dyeing process seems to be the patent of “artistic dyeing and finishing”. In terms of the selection of design themes, the tracing of creative inspiration, and the communication of Eastern and Western cultural connotations, the divergent thinking formed by the integration of the informal technical performance of modern tie-dye technology and the concept of modern plane composition has greatly broadened the designer’s graphic creation horizons; The artistic conception and form of Eastern and Western cultures and the understanding of popular art are the inspiration for graphic creation.The exhausted fountain of life. The craft attributes of “artistic dyeing and finishing” give passionate designers the creative freedom to be as creative as a fish can leap in the ocean or a bird can fly in the sky. Only in terms of graphic design: the gradient formed by the high-key processing of gradient dyeing can convey the beautiful sentiments of the warm spring in the south of the Yangtze River; the strong visual impact of injection dyeing and splashing color is like the spring rain of pear blossoms by the art master Haisu, which wets the pines of Huangshan Mountain. Sea of Clouds; abstract texture produced by traditional twisting and dip dyeing, Relying on the interlacing and trembling lines and magically changing color and light levels, it is like the impression of Monet’s “Sunrise”; and the “foreign material adapted to China” derived from modern Western improvised graffiti is suspected to be the rock rhythm bursting out of the alternative T-shirt; the spray The historical rings created by pulling out water and washing them seem to be the designer’s thorough understanding of “the dead are like this”! There are countless mature techniques in the “art dyeing and finishing” family such as tie-and-draw, carving, transfer printing, brushing, and spray dyeing. These original dyeing and finishing languages, which are concentrated in the philosophy of traditional Eastern culture and rich in Western modern flavor, give designers the freedom to imagine and the market space to “travel to the eight extremes”.
2. Improvisational creative three-dimensional texture beauty
“Pleate Please Pleats” was created by Japan’s internationally renowned fashion design master Issey Miyake, breaking the traditional stereotype of smooth and smooth high-end ready-to-wear. According to different purposes, he designed three new pleats: SPLASH TWIST and PLEAT PLEASE that are simple, lightweight, easy to maintain, and require no ironing. They are highly sought after by people and set off an unprecedented fashion revolution②.
Integrating into European and American fashion trends and constantly innovating techniques to guide the market are important topics in “artistic dyeing and finishing”. After years of exploration, our country’s modern tie-dye technology researchers and designers have achieved leading domestic and foreign stage results in process practice and theoretical research; in terms of industrial process optimization and fabric application research, they have gone beyond the scope of “lifetime pleats” . In terms of three-dimensional texture creation, while modern tie-dye is trying a variety of wrinkle techniques to break through the two-dimensional model, it also emphasizes the grafting with flat tie-dye and other related techniques. The independently developed core technology formed through “innovation” can adapt to constant changes. The growing international market demand for fabrics and clothing.
For post-finishing methods characterized by improvised and creative three-dimensional texture beauty, two points should be paid attention to: A. Actively choose new fabrics. The principle of three-dimensional texture beauty creation is to aggregate and wrinkle fabrics and clothing according to process design requirements, and then use high temperature and high pressure to obtain a stable appearance, forming an “alternative” style that is completely different from ordinary fashion. This process is difficult to control the color, style, texture, feel and process parameters and has high requirements on auxiliary materials, which generally need to be imported from Italy, Japan and South Korea. Therefore, the key to improving the international competitiveness of products is to continuously develop new fancy varieties to adapt to the target market, break through the process barriers of imported auxiliary materials, and strive to reduce costs. Actively adopt new domestic fabrics and conduct optimization tests on them, select domestic fabrics with rich texture, complementary functions, good molding memory and high cost performance to replace imported ones, create a scientific and easy-to-retrieve technical parameter database, and establish a database that can meetAn open fabric experimental model that is popular in European and American markets is very necessary. Through repeated experiments, we have preliminarily concluded that all kinds of knitted, warp knitted and woven thick and thin fabrics containing about 30% polyester content can be used after screening, but the selection and creation of wrinkle technology that is suitable for the characteristics of the fabric is Improve the core technology of the process. At present, commonly used domestic fabrics have been selected, such as modified polyester fabrics, blended interwoven fabrics, new warp knitted fabrics, and deep-processed fabrics with electric embroidery seams. Through mass production practice, the molding memory effect is good and the performance is relatively stable.
The expansion of the localization of imported fabrics and the diversification of fabric components should start from the exploration of the “semantics” of materials, and on the basis of fully expressing the texture of the fabrics, enrich the three-dimensional texture vocabulary, create a “new appearance” of fashionable clothing, and improve the comfort of ready-made clothes. It can satisfy modern people’s spiritual needs for clothing and fashion to the greatest extent. Therefore, in terms of interpreting modern design concepts, highlighting the original spirit of China, and exploring the humanistic connotation of products, fabric exploration experiments have exceeded their own significance.
B. Continuously innovate craft techniques. The continuous innovation of three-dimensional texture forms is the life of pleated clothing. Whether process techniques can adapt to changes in fabrics, technique innovation is the key.
When “reconstructing” the smooth and smooth two-dimensional appearance of fabrics and clothing, a variety of two-dimensional techniques and three-dimensional techniques such as dipping, injecting, pulling, spraying, and painting in modern tie-dying are used according to different fabrics and design styles. The cross-fertilization of techniques produces countless combinations like a “kaleidoscope”, which can inspire designers to improvise. The “multiplying” effect of technological innovation is often born in this state of “imagination and wonderful results”. In addition, combined with the texture of the fabric itself, in terms of three-dimensional molding technology, we have creatively developed heat-sensitive auxiliary material molding methods, spray-painted twisting and high-temperature molding methods, aggregation calendering transfer printing molding methods, and several molding integration methods, which greatly enriched the three-dimensional design. language, and elevate the craft expression of “artistic dyeing and finishing” to a new level.
The design idea of impromptu creative three-dimensional texture beauty is based on the selection of new fabrics and continuous innovation of craftsmanship. In the “Flying of Pleats” three-dimensional fashion series, European-style elegant velvet discharge-dyed noble, ladylike youthful polyester electric embroidery The beauty of heat-sensitive processing, the boldness of western denim polyester-cotton hank-jet and the flamboyant personality of avant-garde punk suede transfer printing have unique artistic charm and lead the trend of the leisure market. As an innovative three-dimensional texture technology for garment finishing, it can accommodate the four seasons seasonally and has a wide range of fabrics. Today, when the profit margins of conventional products are getting smaller and smaller, its original functions of fabric re-engineering and artistic secondary development of garments provide modern industrial dyeing. Hard to replace.
3. Follow the trends of international fashion
The world’s textile trade pattern has changed. The development of modern logistics and changes in the retail industry have reduced intermediate trade links and greatly shortened the distance from production to final consumption. As a result, the fabric is more closely integrated with the final product.
Domestic fashion designers are very envious of the freedom of foreign designers to choose fabrics, and are often troubled by the disconnect between domestic fabric production and clothing design. It has the integrated function of creating fabric and garment dyeing graphics.The unique “artistic dyeing and finishing” integrates the three creative ideas of market, fabrics and clothing, melts fabrics and clothing design into one furnace, and gives designers the freedom to “add color according to genre”. Fashion designers who master the modern tie-dye language can capture popular market information through market inspections, media exhibitions, fashion shows and the Internet, and can express their creativity in a short period of time, forming market and production, form and content. a high degree of unity. This kind of product, which has listened to the call of the market and invested in the passionate creativity of the designer, has the same breathtaking power and vivid appearance as the rhythm of burning and beating brushstrokes in Vincent Van Gogh’s famous oil painting “Sunflowers”. Artistic personality. The only difference is: “Sunflower” is the artist’s “me”, while modern tie-dye technology is the designer’s “them”. Fashion designers have become trendsetters in the fashion era because they have gained artistic and technological freedom from their insight into market trends, selection of suitable fabrics, to final completion of garments.
Fashion designers who freely use modern tie-dye language to create, in the spiritual creative space provided by “artistic dyeing and finishing”, always pull the string of the kite flying in the blue sky of fashion.
4. The craft charm of “artistic dyeing and finishing”
1. Comply with the development trend of the times
With the global popularity of European leisure trends, the connotation and extension of the concept of casual clothing will continue to be enriched and expanded. The launch of new clothing concepts such as business casual, sports casual, home casual, travel and leisure, etc. has not only brought unprecedented vitality to the market, but also brought new business opportunities to modern tie-dye.
Because the casual and free dressing style itself abandons the cloning and indifference of modern industrial standardization, which is reflected in the aesthetic value orientation of clothing, people will choose some graphics that are different from the common aesthetics of modern textile printing and dyeing, and choose some tie-dying and special transfer printing , inkjet printing, carving and embroidery, distressing and other techniques to produce special style clothing to meet your own psychological needs. This style popular in Europe and the United States is the expression of modern civilization in clothing culture and is rooted in their real life. Guotai and people’s peace, democracy and freedom are its inexhaustible source of living water. With the acceleration of economic globalization and the sustained and rapid development of my country’s economy, the leisure group and the domestic casual clothing market have emerged. In line with the development trend of the times, the popularity of casual clothing will also have a huge impact on the structural adjustment of my country’s clothing industry. “Artistic dyeing and finishing”, because of its strong humanistic color and rich and flexible craftsmanship, should have its own accurate positioning in the vigorous development of the casual clothing industry.
2. Leading the fashion trend of clothing
There is a big gap between domestic fabrics and developed countries in terms of design creativity and process innovation. In particular, fabric finishing has not been able to meet the needs of mid- to high-end clothing. The phenomenon of low-end and homogenization of fabrics is serious. At present, the lack of originality of domestic fabrics and the shallow understanding of international popular mechanisms have become “bottlenecks” that restrict designers from unleashing their creative genius and the internationalization of my country’s clothing brands.
Modern tie-dyeing relies on modern printing and dyeing technology and equipment while giving full play to its comparative advantages.Support, widely used in silk, cotton, wool, linen, Tencel, soybean fiber, nitrile, brocade, polyester, viscose and other natural, chemical fibers or blended, interwoven fabrics and ready-made clothes, completely integrated into modern leisure Clothing trends. At the same time, modern tie-dye can quickly feedback according to the market’s new popular predictions and use the Internet to obtain global information, apply computer-aided design systems to create new color schemes and graphic creativity; use modern tie-dye to twist, pleat, dip, inject, draw, and spray , drawing, brushing and other unique craft techniques, drawing on the plane composition and The expressive techniques of modern painting art carry out “cosmetic reconstruction” and artistic reproduction of fabrics to create “meaningful forms, often with relief-like textures, freehand effects of splashing colors and superb abstract compositions, which make foreign high-end textile printing and dyeing fabrics He hesitated, showing his originality and compatibility between East and West. The artistic personality of culture. “Art dyeing and finishing” has gained a “voice” in the world’s clothing trends with its unique original craft language.
3. Meet the needs of “personality” according to the famous design needs of Maas. Luo level, people’s physical and psychological needs are They are arranged from bottom to top: Physiological needs category: Physiological needs-security needs, Psychological needs category: Social needs-Self-esteem needs-Self-expression needs. The following needs are basic, while the above needs are personality, Advanced ③. Flexible and versatile performance of modern tie-dying. , more suitable for people’s pursuit of “personality” in clothing. In order to satisfy modern people’s consumer psychology of self-expression and innovation, designers explore new artistic “languages” when creative and use unconventional dyeing and finishing methods to design various special designs. Texture effect, the “craft renaissance” of traditional manual techniques also comes with time In production, the new tie-up process often requires thousands of people to operate at the same time. The labor cost of this unique spinning and dyeing activity is the same as the technical barrier of “artistic dyeing and finishing”, which is the most common problem in Europe, the United States, and the United States. Japan and other developed countries cannot afford and break through. At the same time, it is labor-intensive and dyeing and finishing. The modern tie-dye industry with the dual characteristics of industrialization not only gives us technical barrier advantages and cost advantages, but also promotes regional economic prosperity, alleviates the severe employment situation in cities, provides workers with opportunities to find jobs again, absorbs rural surplus labor, and realizes the agricultural economy. Contributions to society in terms of migration to the industrial economy has made a great contribution. Therefore, from a sociological and economic perspective, “artistic dyeing and finishing” also shows charming craft charm
5. The prospects of “artistic dyeing and finishing”
1. Positive. Exploring a vast potential market
Art and science coexist The language of “artistic dyeing and finishing” adapts to modern people’s lifestyles, understands modern people’s life attitudes, and responds to the call of new international textile trends. On this basis, it has successfully developed traditional techniques such as tie-dying into a method that can maximize the value of textiles. It is an indispensable modern craft industry that fully meets modern people’s individual needs for fashionable clothing, fabric finishing, and pursuit of excellent quality. Its craft connotation and extension are showing a dynamic and open trend.
According to incomplete statistics, in the world. Dusseldorf, Germany “CAt the “PD” Professional Garment Expo and the Hong Kong International Fashion Festival, the proportion of casual-style garments has exceeded half; in all domestic clothing exhibitions and booths, regardless of scale, modern tie-dye fashionable expressions seem to be everywhere. But compared with Europe, the United States, and Japan Compared with other developed countries, the industrialization process of modern tie-dye fabrics and clothing in my country is relatively lagging behind. This may be due to the lack of attention of Chinese designers to modern tie-dye. The degree of attention is related to certain misunderstandings. In fact, in addition to the outstanding performance of graphic creativity, modern tie-dye technology is not only green and environmentally friendly, the degree of internationalization of color fastness standards, but also the synchronization with the fashion trends of European and American textile and apparel markets. In terms of development, it is no less demanding than domestic and foreign requirements for modern textile printing and dyeing processes. Therefore, actively exploring the domestic potential market is the way to develop the modern tie-dye industry. To.
2. Continuously create unique “meaningful forms”
Modern tie-dye positions itself as “artistic dyeing and finishing” of fashionable clothing, requiring us to deeply explore the aesthetic value of Western modern art and avant-garde pop art on clothing. Formative influence: Clive Bell (1881-196), a famous British visual art critic published at the beginning of this century. 6) The proposition that “art is meaningful form” put forward in “Art” has become a popular mantra in modern Western aesthetics and is recognized as a pillar of modern art theory as an important symbol of modern lifestyle. Clothing culture has always been Europe and the United States, especially Europe, which leads the world’s trends. Therefore, China has independently developed and adapted European and American casual clothing. At the same time as high-tech, it is especially necessary to integrate with Western culture in terms of design concepts. The biggest difference between modern tie-dying and industrial printing and dyeing is that its images are abstract and freehand, which is emphasized by the handicrafts of “Nvhong” and “painters”. In addition to the “realistic portrayal” of modeling elements such as lines and surfaces, different fabrics or garments entering the production process are generally unique in “formal beauty” and intriguing. Through the encounter with dyes, coatings and additives, it produces capillary effect, cross-linking effect, anti-dyeing effect of physical properties and dyeing effect and redox effect of chemical properties, making the graphics “wonderful between similarity and dissimilarity”. Freehand brushwork and Western abstract connotations are extremely gorgeous and beautiful. This flowing, changing line, color and mutually constituted formal relationship is closely related to the aesthetic value of Western modern art. The value orientation is consistent.
3. Use differentiation strategy to enter the mainstream Western market:
The famous American economist Michael Porter proposed in the book “Competitive Advantage” that there are two types of competitive advantages that enterprises may have. It is cost advantage and product differentiation. Most traditional enterprises in my country are trying to control their own costs, but ignore the advantages of product differentiation, resulting in As a result, many industries and production capacity currently exceed market capacity and market consumption demand, while the product structure is unreasonable and lacks market competitiveness⑤. Moving towards the future, the modern tie-dye industry should take the market as its goal and technology as its guide. , culture as the foundation, product development actively implements differentiation strategy, product style actively distances itself from conventional spinning and dyeing, forming its own unique competitionAdvantages. At the same time, modern tie-dyeing should consciously converge with international textile and dyeing standards in using information technology to transform traditional industries, improve management platforms in the knowledge economy, cast modern corporate culture concepts, build modern tie-dye technology brands and implement green environmental protection strategies, so that the industry Enter a virtuous circle and a healthy track of sustainable development. Enterprise operations also need to integrate into the European and American clothing fashion circles with a high degree of informationization, and fully introduce network management in terms of business methods, financial management, production planning, design concepts, process research and development, etc., and absorb and release information flow. , holding the “invisible hand” of the market.
References:
①. Gu Ming: “Art Dyeing and Finishing and the New Industrialization of the Garment Industry”, Journal of the Academy of Fine Arts, Tsinghua University/China Decoration Magazine “Decoration” 2004, (1): 82-83
②. Shenzhen Information Port Fashion Fashion Character “Oriental Shockwave Issey Miyake” WWW.SZ INFO.COM
2004-1-14
③. Wang Shouzhi and Feng Damei: “Twentieth Century World Fashion” Modern Design Series 1 Guangdong Lingnan Fine Arts Publishing House
1986: 1
④. Teng Shouyao: [English] “Art” by Clive Bell, preface to the translation by Zhou Jinhuan and Ma Zhongyuan. Edited by the Aesthetics Office of the Institute of Philosophy, Chinese Academy of Social Sciences, Preface to the 1984 edition of “Art” published by China Federation of Literary and Art Circles Publishing Company, page 1 ⑤ Cao Xuejun: “The Current Situation and Development of Textile Fabrics in my country” “Printing and Dyeing” 2003, (7): 1-5 , 13
About the author:
Gu Ming: Director and chief craftsman of Jiangsu Huayi Modern Tie-Dyeing R&D Center; member of the China Fashion Designers Association, member of the expert database of the National Textile Product Development Center, and instructor of modern tie-dying for master’s students in the Department of Clothing, College of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University. The sixth batch of top-notch professional and technical talents in Nantong Haian.
In the mid-1980s, he studied under Professor Yuan Ping, a famous clothing expert, and has been engaged in modern tie-dye theory research and market development and design work for a long time. In 2003, the concept of “artistic dyeing and finishing” was first proposed at the “Centennial Forum” of the Jiangsu International Fashion Festival, and in 2004, the concept of “pan-craft popularization” was proposed. From 2003 to 2004, while presiding over the “Art Dyeing and Finishing” research project of Jiangsu Huayi, he published articles in “Journal of Tsinghua University”, “Journal of Donghua University”, “Textile Herald”, “China Clothing”, “Jiangsu Textile”, “China Textile News”, “China Fashion News “Clothing Times” and other academic journals and professional media published more than 30 professional papers and design reviews, which were reprinted by more than 30 famous domestic and foreign websites such as “Design Online”, “Yibo Network”, “China Economic Network” and “World Manager Network” , won high praise from the academic community.
In 2005, the paper “Discussing the Differentiation of my country’s Fashion Design from Artistic Dyeing and Finishing” was sponsored by the 2005 Shanghai Municipal People’s Government, Shanghai International Fashion Culture Festival Organizing Committee, Shanghai Garment Industry Association, and “China Cup” International Fashion Design Competition Group It won the top prize in the “China Cup” international clothing paper selection organized by the committee and was selected into the 2005 “China Cup” international clothing paper collection.Guided the modern tie-dye women’s work “Amélie” designed by Han Jia of Nantong University and won the “Silver Award for Women’s Wear Design” in the 2005 “China Cup” International Fashion Design Competition; guided Zhang Qi, a master’s student in art at Donghua University, in the design of modern tie-dye The fashion work “New Valerian” won the “Good Times” award in the first China Youth Fashion Design Competition “Shangfa Fabric Award” and “Fashion Design Silver Award” (design: Zhang Qi Weidong, instructor: Bian Xiangyang and Gu Ming), guided Jiangnan University master’s student Liu Suqiong to complete the modern tie-dye research paper “Preliminary Discussion on Digital Art Creativity and Modern Tie-Dye Pattern Design” , published in the Social Science Edition of the Journal of Donghua University, Issue 1, 2005; Two national technical invention patents including “Artistic Dyeing and Finishing Technology of Integrated Garment Dyeing Graphics” were published by the Central Literature Publishing House and published the fourth volume of “Chinese Spiritual Civilization Ceremony”/Technology and Invention; the design work “Artistic Dyeing and Finishing Fabrics” new product Shortlisted for the 2005 “China’s Top 500 New Products” list selected by “World Managers Weekly”. In September 2005, he was invited to participate in the expert group of the National Textile Product Development Center’s “China 2005 Textile Product Development Report” and completed the dyeing and finishing/artistic dyeing and finishing part; In October, “Artistic Dyeing and Finishing New Technology” won the third prize of Jiangsu Province Science and Technology Progress Award and the second prize of Nantong City Science and Technology Progress Award; the tie-dye fabric design won the creative group design award of “2005 China Fabric Design and Flower Design Competition”. The paper “Artistic Dyeing and Finishing Innovation and Fabric Visual Differentiation” won the third prize in the paper selection of the 2005 China Textile Product Development Outstanding Paper Collection.
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