Silk and linen blended wet weave fabric
(1) Overview of wet fabric design of silk and linen blended chemical fiber fabrics 1. Characteristics of silk and linen blended chemical fiber fabrics, blended chemical fiber fabrics (primary colors), bleached yarns and fabrics (1) Fully mix two natural fibers with different properties in an appropriate proportion, and the “softness” of silk fiber and the “stiffness” of linen fiber are immediately effective Combined with the ground, it not only maintains the inherent characteristics of natural silk itself, but also improves the defects of pure linen fabrics such as hard feel, uneven cloth surface and stiffness of silk fabrics. (2) The flax raw materials used are high-quality combed long linen and short linen fibers, and the bleached yarn produced by the wet spinning process of blended chemical fiber fabrics has the advantages of good evenness, few hemp particles, and high uniformity of spinning yarn. The elasticity and luster of blended chemical fiber fabric yarn are also significantly higher than that of pure linen yarn, and can be used to weave various colored and printed fabrics. (3) According to the fiber transfer theory during the spinning process, flax fibers are thick and cover the surface of silk fibers, while silk fibers are thin. Some of the fibers are transferred to the inside of the spinning yarn during the spinning process, and some of the fibers and flax fibers Distributed on the outside of the spinning yarn, and the silk and linen blended chemical fiber fabric wet spinning yarn has a low yarn density, and can spin spun yarns below 20tex (more than 50 male count), and the woven fabric is fine but not waxy, thick and It is not rough, has good moisture absorption and breathability, is comfortable to wear, does not stick to the body after absorbing sweat, and has antibacterial function. It is a pure natural green fabric and is suitable for making thin summer inner and outer clothing for men and women. It is also suitable for knitted products. It is an ideal summer work Load fabric. 2. Selection of raw materials (1) Selection of silk: Natural silk is mainly divided into two types: domestic silk and wild silk. Domestic silk is mulberry silk, while wild silk is divided into tussah frog, castor silk, camphor silk, etc. Since wild silk has stronger acid and alkali resistance than domestic silk, it is better to use wild silk in products blended with flax fiber and chemical fiber fabrics. Domestic wild silk generally adopts tussah silk. Tussah silk is made from silk spun strips. The weight of the spun silk strip is 15-18g/m, the average single fiber length of the spun silk strip is not less than 90mm, the average single fiber strength is not less than 44cN/tex (5gf/denier), and the average single fiber linear density is greater than 2.2dtex. (2) Selection of flax fiber: In silk/linen fabrics, flax generally accounts for a larger proportion, especially for export blended chemical fiber fabric products, where the flax fiber content generally accounts for more than 55%. Silk fiber is not resistant to alkali, and linen fiber is not resistant to acid. However, the scouring process in the flax wet spinning process requires acid and alkaline degumming of the flax fiber. Therefore, flax fiber must be imported high-strength, high-strength, low-pectin and woody fiber to reduce damage to silk during the bleaching process. Generally, the length of combed hemp fiber is 400-500mm, the strength is more than 19.6N (20kgf), and less than 22dtex (more than 450 metric thread). When combed into short flax, the strength is more than 29.4N (30kgf), the average fiber length is more than 10mm, and the splitting degree is less than 25dtex (more than 400 metric branches). Strong alkali has a great influence on the fiber loss rate. When the concentration and temperature increase, the silk is gradually dissolved, and as the concentration of weak alkali increases, the degree of bleaching of the yarn also increases. After the wet spinning of wet silk and flax is off the machine, it needs to be dried. The fatigue growth rate of silk and flax blended chemical fiber fabric yarn increases with the increase of drying time and drying temperature.
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